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Excerpt: It is tempting to describe Jubilee (347 East 54th Street) as a neighborhood restaurant, but the term neighborhood in New York has been a controversial one for years. One thing that distinguished the East 50s during the generation after World War II were its great French restaurants: CafÈ Chauveron, La CÙte Basque, Lafayette, LutËce, and many others, including the grand daddy of them all, Le Pavillon on East 57th Street. These restaurants served classic French cuisine, in chic, fashionable surroundings. Now the only survivor of this halcyon period is La Grenouille on 52nd Street. These restaurants were always for people who didnít worry about the bill, but there were other restaurants in the area with impeccable French credentials and modest tabs, like La Toque Blanche on 50th Street and Le Moal on Third Avenue...
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