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Excerpt: Fine dining on the Upper West Side has always been a sometime thing. Even in flush times, running a fine restaurant above 72nd Street has been a challenge. Successful restaurants in the neighborhood have historically been moderately priced. Also, westsiders have traditionally left the neighborhood for "special occasion" dinners. Then years ago, the restaurants Dovetail, eight-one, and Quest would have been unimaginable in this neighborhood.

Bargain-hunting, another West Side tradition, is now a necessity for many, and all three restaurants offer prix fixe, that is, an appetizer, a main course, and (perhaps) dessert, for little more than the price of a main course a la carte, although at two of them you have to time your visit rather carefully to take advantage of the discount.